The cosmetics market, which is constantly evolving, is now driven by innovation and sustainability, such as the search for new active ingredients and, at the same time, techniques for evaluating the effectiveness of increasingly high-performance products that can meet regulatory requirements in terms of new forms of communication with customers, and in particular the possibility of creating innovative images of the skin's response to treatments.

Service Biotech offers the cosmetics industry its in-depth expertise in the application of structural biology to the evaluation of cosmetic efficacy through the creation of 2D and 3D ultrastructure analyses (SEM, EDX, TEM and Immunogold techniques).

Service Biotech specialises in the analysis of different types of biological samples (skin and hair explants, biopsies from clinical studies, reconstructed human tissues, 3D, organoids, cells, materials even in the presence of microbiomes and/or associated microorganisms) and therefore has a unique competitive advantage to enter and thrive in the R&D, Innovation and QC of cosmetic companies by offering innovative solutions at an affordable cost per test.

Tests in the cosmetics sector

1. BIOMA-SEM — Advanced analysis of skin microbiota

Advanced analysis of skin microbiota with 3 applications: diagnostic approach for volunteer selection and as a parameter for clinical studies, support for preclinical in vitro evaluations.

The growing awareness of the role of the skin microbiome in skin health and beauty has given rise to interesting research, and the support that Service Biotech can provide in this area is decidedly innovative:

• Identification and ultrastructural characterisation of microorganisms: analysis using SEM, TEM and EDX of the morphology, aggregation and elemental composition of bacteria, fungi and protozoa present on skin samples or in pro/prebiotic formulations.
• Study of product-microbiota-skin interaction: evaluation of how cosmetic ingredients or formulations (e.g. probiotics, prebiotics, postbiotics) influence the balance of the skin microbiota at the ultrastructural level, both in vitro (on colonised 3D skin models) and in clinical studies on human samples.
• Evaluation of the skin barrier and protective function: measuring the impact of products on the integrity of the skin barrier at the ultrastructural level in relation to the microbiome, using, for example, Skin-SEM to analyse dermatological samples.

2. Skin-SEM — Anti-ageing efficacy and skin functionality at the ultrastructural level

The cosmetics industry is constantly searching for objective evidence of the efficacy of anti-ageing products. Service Biotech can provide unique data:

• Collagen and elastin fibre analysis: use of TEM to visualise and quantify ultrastructural changes in collagen and elastin fibres in the dermis of 3D skin models or skin biopsies treated with anti-ageing products. This can demonstrate stimulation of synthesis or prevention of degradation.
• Cellular hydration assessment: examine ultrastructural changes in epidermal cells (e.g. keratinocytes) and intercellular structures (tight junctions, lipids) that contribute to skin hydration and barrier function. EDX for analysis of sodium and calcium, important elements of hydration, and oxygen.
• Microparticle and nanoparticle analysis: use SEM and EDX to characterise the size, shape and distribution of micro- and nanoparticles (e.g. mineral UV filters, pigments) in formulations and their penetration or permanence on skin layers. QC-SEM could be adapted for this application for quality control.

3. QC-SEM — Ultrastructural quality control

• Purity and contamination assessment: identification of any contaminants (foreign particles, unwanted agglomerates) in raw materials or finished products using EDX elemental analysis for ions and metals.
• Stability of emulsions and dispersions: ultrastructural analysis to assess the stability of emulsions, suspensions and dispersions over time and under different conditions, which is essential for the shelf life of cosmetic products.
• Particle size control: verification of particle size distribution in powders, pigments or sunscreens, which affects texture, performance and safety.

4. Correlative microscopy (CLEM) — Development of customised diagnostic tests

Promoting this technique as an advanced tool for solving complex problems in cosmetic R&D, such as ingredient-formulation-skin interaction, product stability under different conditions or detailed analysis of rare adverse reactions.

Test type: EDX — Physico-chemical

Specialised in ultrastructural and compositional analysis (of materials and interactions). We can characterise particle morphology, distribution, mixture homogeneity and the presence of specific elements in cosmetic formulations.

Benefits:

• Elemental composition: precise determination of the elements present.
• Point characterisation: analysis of particles, elements, morphology, homogeneity.
• Advanced quality control: identification of impurities or structural anomalies.
• Product stability: assessment of physical stability at the nanometric level.

Test type: Microbiology

We offer ultrastructural analyses of microorganisms (bacteria, fungi, protozoa) and their interactions with human tissues (e.g. skin, hair) and materials. We use BIOMA-SEM and QC-SEM to study microbiota and antimicrobial/pro-microbial efficacy.

Benefits:

• Microbiome study: in-depth analysis of skin microbial communities.
• Antimicrobial efficacy: assessment of the impact on pathogenic microorganisms.
• Host-microbe interactions: understanding of mechanisms at the ultrastructural level.
• Pro-microbial development: support for products that modulate the microbiota.

Test type: Safety

We provide crucial ultrastructural data for safety assessment, particularly on reconstructed 3D tissue models. We analyse cytotoxic, irritant or sensitising effects at the cellular and tissue level, supporting non-animal testing. Skin, hair, cornea and nasal mucosa.

Benefits:

• Ultrastructural and comparative biology is a valuable aid in the fine assessment of product safety when in vitro toxicology techniques fail to discriminate the action of products (e.g. the cornea).
• Non-animal testing: ethical solutions that comply with EU regulations.
• Advanced safety data: detailed assessment on 3D models.
• Early detection of toxicity: identification of minimal cellular alterations.
• Validation of 3D models: precise characterisation of their physiology.

HAIR-SEM

Ultrastructural analysis in SEM of the hair section. The evaluation is made on a patient's hair sample, on all types of hair, and assesses the accumulation of products such as heavy metals in the hair structures, making not only a qualitative and semi-quantitative assessment, but also an assessment over time, considering whether the point of accumulation is more apical or proximal to the root.

Test type: A new approach to cutaneous absorption

We evaluate the skin penetration of ingredients and formulations through ultrastructural analysis (SEM, TEM) on 3D skin models for bioavailability, bioequivalence and formulation optimisation studies for targeted absorption. We visualise the path and location of substances in the skin layers.

Benefits:

• Penetration mapping: precise location of ingredients in the skin.
• Quantitative data: measurement of absorption at the nanometric level.
• Mechanistic insights: understanding of skin passageways.

Test type: Container-content interaction

We analyse the ultrastructural changes in packaging materials and the possible migration of substances from the container to the cosmetic product. This guarantees the stability and safety of the product over time.

Benefits:

• Product safety: prevention of contamination from packaging.
• Long-term stability: assessment of product integrity in the container.
• Material compatibility: selection of optimal packaging.
• Defect identification: detection of structural alterations in materials.

Test type: Skin & scalp efficacy

We evaluate the efficacy of skin and scalp products on 3D models and clinical samples (e.g. biopsies, dermatological samples with Skin-SEM). We analyse ultrastructural changes related to hydration, barrier, ageing, tone and microflora.

Benefits:

• Structural proof of concept: demonstration of efficacy at the cellular level.
• Objective data: scientific support for product claims.
• Mechanistic insights: in-depth understanding of mechanisms of action.
• Formulation optimisation: guidance for improving efficacy.

Test type: UV

We provide ultrastructural analyses (SEM, TEM) of the distribution and dispersion of UV filters (e.g. TiO2/ZnO nanoparticles) on the skin surface or within formulations, which can be correlated with UV protection efficacy.

Benefits:

• UV filter distribution: visualisation of sunscreen coverage.
• Filter stability: assessment of the integrity and aggregation of UV particles.
• UV filter penetration: monitoring of mineral filter absorption at skin level.
• SPF optimisation: data to improve protective formulations. Ageing and stimulation testing on 3D tissues and implant-type devices, evaluating UV absorption in relation to cell damage and structural ageing.

Test type: Data analysis

Our value proposition includes 'precise and accurate reporting and multiple or complex data interpretation'. We integrate and interpret complex ultrastructural data to provide meaningful insights to support R&D and QC decisions.

Benefits:

• Advanced interpretation: transformation of complex data into insights.
• Clear reporting: accurate documentation for informed decisions.
• Correlative analysis: integration of data from different techniques.
• Scientific support for product strategy.

Test type: Other method

Correlative microscopy (CLEM) and 3D reconstructions (3D-TEM/3DSEM) are our flagship methodologies for addressing unique challenges, eliminating operator-dependent errors and offering a holistic understanding.

Benefits:

• Holistic understanding: comprehensive view of complex samples.
• High precision: reduction of operator-dependent errors.
• Innovative approach: solutions for non-standard research questions.
• 3D visualisation: intuitive representation of structures and alterations.